Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: September 02, 2020 | 
| 中文
Frescos on the Mosque Walls (photo credits to orphanednation.com)
There is no dearth of beautiful historic mosques in Pakistan, which use their art and architecture as tools of expression and worship. The Jamia Masjid (Grand Mosque) of Rawalpindi is one such mosque in the old city centre, which stands out from the older buildings of Rawalpindi and the Mughal-style mosques in Punjab. It is one of the oldest mosques still standing in the city, and has continued to fascinate people with its aesthetics and history. It is located in a narrow street at the junction of Bagh Sardaran and Jamia Masjid Road (named after the mosque), some 15 minutes away from Saddar Bazaar.
The mosque is spread across 8 acres as a rectangular building with three large domes on top, and several small minarets. Although seemingly humble and unassuming on the outside, the mosque opens into a breathtaking and panoramic view of the compound. There is a fountain in the center of the courtyard, and the mosque ground can hold up to 8,000-10,000 people. The blue and white hue of the exterior is only a small preview to the dazzling color scheme and inside.
The Mosque Exterior
Jamia Masjid’s overall structure harks back to traditional Mughal three-dome design, and acoustics which allows the people speaking on one end of the mosque to be heard on the other. The bright colors of the mosque walls have geometric patterns, floral designs, tile mosaics and verses from the Quran. The intricate designs in their hypnotic colors have remained largely untouched by time, and continue to fascinate those who visit. According to architect Ghafer Shahzad, the mosque façade uses the basic shape of the arch to create traditional frescos with unconventional materials, colors and techniques. And the final result is as unique as the history of the grand mosque.
What is perhaps most interesting is the way the mosque was constructed as a community project. Construction began in 1903, when Sikh businessmen like Sujan Singh created magnificent spaces dedicated to communal worship like Bagh Sardaran. But there was virtually no space where Muslims of Rawalpindi could congregate for larger gatherings like Eid prayers. Two saints of the Chishti order (a notable Sufi order during the Mughal Era), Pir Mehar Ali Shah of Golra Sharif and Khawaja Ahmed of Maira Sharif, laid the first foundations of this mosque.
An Arch with Frescos photo credits to orphanednation.com)
During the British Era, construction of the mosque became a communal, collaborative effort. Notable community members like, Qazi Guhar Ali, Mian Qutbuddin and Mian Nabi Baksh came together to build a beautiful and aesthetically pleasing house of worship that would bring pride to their community. At the time, there were few buildings owned by wealthy Muslims and the city only had two major Muslim neighborhoods: Waris Shah mohalla and Pir Harra mohalla.
Finance was a large constraint, and many wealthy and influential community leaders scoured Rawalpindi and much of Punjab to fund the mosque’s construction. It was said that the neighborhood women used to donate a fistful of flour to pay for the mosque’s construction, and the men designated one day of every week to aid construction efforts. During more extreme times, women also donated jewelry and one resident of Peshawar donated Rs. 0.1 million, which was no small feat.
Mughal-style Mosque Facade (photo credits to Scheherzadeh on Twitter)
Locals, who have been visiting the mosque for generations, claim that masons from Chakwal were brought to help embellish the mosque. Sikh woodcarvers, who were revered for their skill and flair carved the doors while Muslim painters completed the fresco work. While some attribute its inspiration to older mosques of the Pothohar like Mai Qamro (located a little outside Islamabad), others believe its structure is more reminiscent of the Mughal architecture also found in the towns of Wah and Fateh Jang. The mosque was completed in 1905, and the Pir of Golra Sharif was present for the first Friday sermon.
The century-old frescos of the mosque can still be found in the interior halls, very reminiscent of the warm tones and floral patterns used by the Mughals. However, it is unfortunate that much of the older work has been lost to age and water damage. Alhtough most of the art is intact, amateur attempts at renovation have been done to some of the façade at the expense of losing of the precious work done by the original artisans. Currently, the mosque has its own caretakers and finance offices, many concerned citizens and history enthusiasts have pushed for the mosque to be recognized as a historical monument.
The entrance to the Mosque, hidden between shops and cables (photo credit to Dawn)
Jamia Masjid Rawalpindi is one of the most dazzling and colorful mosques to be found in the Pothohar region, which is a testament to the craftsmanship and dedication with which it was made. What has been so fascinating is how the history of Muslims in the Subcontinent and South Asian architectural influences have come together in one space in the heart of Old Rawalpindi. It deserves to be treated with the same recognition, reverence and respect as all historical sites in Pakistan, which also means ensuring its proper care and conservation.
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