Written by: Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Posted on: April 23, 2024 | 
| 中文
Carved slabs in passage of Gavrinis (Picture taken by the writer)
France’s Brittany province is well known for its many megalithic monuments, which are found throughout the coastal area. The most prominent megalithic sites include Kerlud, Kerdaniel dolmen, Le Mane Lud, Mane-er-Hroeck tumulus, Er Hourel dolmen, Le Mane Rethual, Les Pierres Plates dolmen, the Great Broken Menhir, Er Grah tumulus, Table des Marchands dolmen, Crucuno cromlech, Dolmens du Keriaval, Vieux-Moulin alignment, Kerlescan alignments, Kerzerho alignments, Mane-Kerioned dolmen, Er Lannic stone circle, Carnac alignments, dolmen du Kercado, and Gavrinis and many others.
The entrance to Gavrinis passage tomb (Picture taken by the writer)
Gavrinis, a small island in the Gulf of Morbihan, holds Brittany’s most impressive Neolithic cairn /tumulus or passage tomb, a unique experience to be noted for its incredibly carved stones. The Gavrinis passage tomb, an ancient burial ground covered in a cairn or stone mound and with a mound of earth on top of it, has stimulated the curiosity of researchers and laymen for years. Their fascination led to the first excavation of the site in 1835 and subsequently in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s.
Carved stones in Gavrinis passage tomb (Picture taken by the writer)
The Gavrinis, accessible from Larmor-Baden port town, offers many popular tourist attractions, including the Gavirins passage tomb. I had the privilege of visiting Gavrinis with two Italian archaeologists, Alberto Pozzi and Beatrice Auguadro, who are experts in megalithic studies. We purchased boat tickets from Larmor-Baden port town, also renowned for oyster farming. It is about 13 minutes by boat from Larmor-Baden to Gavrinis Island. As we sailed, we were greeted by a magnificent stone circle on the small Island of Er Lannic, a few standing stones visible from a distance, which sometimes remain submerged due to tidal immersion. This stone circle is in front of the Gavrinis Island. The Gavrinis burial mound or passage tomb is open to tourists between April and October. During these months, many visitors flock to Larmor-Baden town and embark on a guided tour of the Gavrinis, a journey that promises to be both educational and awe-inspiring.
View of Larmor-Baden harbour (Picture taken by the writer)
As my Italian friends shared the site's rich history, I was enthralled by the marvel before me. The Gavrinis passage tomb, a unique structure spanning 50 metres in diameter and believed to have been built in 4000 BC, stands as a testament to the remarkable ingenuity of the Neolithic community of Brittany. Our tour guide and the Italian archaeologists enlightened me and other tourists about the burial chamber's construction. The walls were meticulously crafted from about 50 stone slabs, and the ceiling slab of the burial chamber, weighing about 17 tons, was a feat of engineering. I wondered how these massive stones were quarried and transported to the awe-inspiring site of Gavrinis.
Twenty-nine slabs form sides of the passage of Gavrinis, of which twenty-three are highly decorated, each slab a masterpiece of megalithic art. The stones depict intriguing designs, including zigzags, concentric circles, herringbones, axes, bows, and arrows, a rare sight in megalithic monuments. This rarity makes Gavrinis a must-visit for any history enthusiast. The entire surface of the upright stones in the passage and chamber of Gavrinis cairn is decorated, a feature that sets it apart from many other megalithic monuments in France. This unique monument is renowned for its beautiful geometric designs and unparalleled construction. More than just a stunning sight, the Gavrinis passage tomb holds significant historical value, marking a crucial period in the evolution of megalithic art. Many scholars have written on Gavrinis, focusing on its construction technique, dating, folklore, megalithic art and many other aspects.
Boarding for Gavrinis from Larmor-Baden port (Picture taken by the writer)
Alberto Pozzi (2013), the author of Megalithism: Sacred and Pagan Architecture in Prehistory, believes that Gavrinis is the most well-known and visited sepulchral monument and its period of construction is not known, even though the excavations carried out in front of its façade have brought to light pottery sherds and tools dating back to 3,500 and 3,000 B.C. Jean-Pierre Mohen (2009), the author of Standing Stones: Stonehenge, Carnac and The World of Megaliths, argues that the site of Gavrinis, built around 4000 BC, represents the peak of Morbihan art and, indeed, of all the megalithic art of western France.
By entering the long passage of Gavrinis, the visitor gets spellbound by its exceptional ornamentation. The visitor keeps mulling over the Neolithic community’s art designs, which were pecked on the slabs. Some of the most intriguing signs that I noticed in the passage include hafted axes, axe blades, diverging crooks, zigzags, bucklers, concentric circles, lozenges, bows, arrows, spirals, chevrons and many other symbols. It is not easy to interpret the purpose of these signs, and although a lot has been written on them, it does not appear to be very convincing. Scholars interpret these signs through their own theoretical and methodological approaches.
Decorated stones in the passage of Gavrinis (Picture taken by the writer)
The scholars have studied the signs from different perspectives. However, the most remarkable book, Megalithic Art of Western Europe by Elizabeth Shee Twohig (1981) , is the only work that helps understand the complex motifs of megalithic monuments to some extent. This book deals with megalithic art and covers three geographic areas: Iberia, France and Ireland. The author addresses the problems of interpretations, origins, relationships, techniques, functions and dating of megalithic art in this book. The megalithic art of Gavrinis has also been discussed in detail. It is one of the seminal works about megalithic art.
Like many other megaliths of Brittany, the Gavrinis is a well-preserved and managed site that attracts thousands of tourists between April and October. Visiting this site is not just a journey into the past, but a fascinating insight into Brittany's ancient history, which will enlighten the visitor.
The writer is an anthropologist who authored 15 books on Pakistan's cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar
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