Written by: Ayesha Amir
Posted on: July 19, 2024 | 
| 中文
Noor Mahal at Night
Not many people are aware that Pakistan’s rich “royal” history has more to it than just the Mughal architectural gems. Bahawalpur is a beautiful city of the Punjab, on the border of the Cholistan desert that has a history of royalty. The princely state of Bahawalpur was ruled by the Nawabs, and as is fitting for any princely familial people, they resided within the most luxurious and opulent of palaces, tailored specifically to the taste of the Nawabs that got these palaces constructed. When one visits Bahawalpur to behold the breathtaking sight of these palaces (or Mahals, as they are locally called), the most awe-inspiring aspect is the fact that the aesthetic and architectural style of these palaces are very unique and different from what we are used to seeing in the typical South Asian royal architecture. Rather, they have a uniquely European touch to them, and the reason for this is that most of the Nawabs received their education in Europe, and were inspired enough to order European architects to build their palaces. This led to European aesthetic styles leaving their imprint on the regal walls of Bahawalpur’s palaces. Here are my favorite mahals (palaces) and their historical significance:
Gulzar Mahal
Arguably the most popular out of all of Bahawalpur’s Palaces, Noor Mahal, literally means the "Palace of Lights," and has become a prominent landmark for the city. Constructed in 1872 during the reign of Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV, Noor Mahal was designed by a British engineer, Mr. Heennan, in the style of an Italian chateau. The palace reflects a blend of Islamic and European architectural influences, making it a unique structure altogether, with Pelican statues guarding the entrance to the palace doors. Walking through the grand halls of Noor Mahal, it almost feels like one is walking through the past. Much of the interior is also preserved as it is, which makes it very easy to imagine what the life of the Nawabs looked like. The chandeliers, the rugs and vases, are all a source of fascination. If you’re lucky to catch yourself travelling in the fall or spring months to Bahawalpur, you might even stay to watch the light show in Noor Mahal. It is perhaps the only palace out of all to come alive even more beautifully at night, with mellow lights shining all over the palace façade and casting dreamy halos in the autumn mist.
Noor Mahal
Darbar Mahal is a personal favourite, and the reason for that is not only that it has the most beautifully built walk-through corridors with fountains in the courtyard, but the fact that Pelicans roam freely around! Built in 1905, Darbar Mahal served as the court of the Nawabs of Bahawalpur. The palace was constructed under the orders of Nawab Bahawal Khan the fifth, and showcases a blend of Mughal plus Gothic architecture. The red sandstone façade of Darbar Mahal is adorned with intricate carvings and decorative elements that highlight the skilled craftsmanship of the period. Much like Noor Mahal, it has Pelican statues here and there. And speaking of the roaming pelicans, the reason behind why Bahawalpur’s coat of arms features the said bird, is a very interesting one. One of Bahawalpur’s Nawabs had pelicans as his favourite birds, because of their selfless temperament, and in times of adversary the pelicans would offer their own flesh to their younglings as sustenance. The Nawab believed this is how the ruler of a State should be towards his own people as well.
The corridors of Darbar Mahal
Another architectural gem of Bahawalpur, Gulzar Mahal, was built during the reign of Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV, in the early 20th century. The palace is a fine example of the Indo-Saracenic style, characterized by its blend of architectural elements from different South Asian cultures. Gulzar Mahal was primarily used for residential purposes and state functions, and even if you visit it now, you might not be able to see it much, unless you’re a guest who is staying within the rooms-turned into guest rooms within the palace. The Gulzar Mahal unlike its Pink stoned counterparts in the city like Noor and Darbar Mahal, has arched windows and balconies with a grey stone exterior. Although glamourous on its own, the subdued colour does not make it look as striking as the other places, but it is still very splendid. One reason why it gives off bougie exclusive vibes is that it has been turned into a guest house, making it unavailable for tourists.
The Hall inside Gulzar Mahal
If you’re looking for a horror story adventure of your own, a visit to Sadiq Garh Palace is a must. It is by far the most surreal experience to be had. Located in Dera Nawab Sahib, the palace was completed in 1882 and is named after Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV. This grand palace is considered one of the most magnificent royal residences in Bahawalpur, where you can still see the remnants of what was once a very royal indoor life. It is said that the construction of the palace was a significant event, attended by dignitaries and royalty from across the region, though its façade in its truest sense screams the phrase “past glory”. Compared to the other palaces, it is amongst the most remote ones, and hence not inhabited or frequented by visitors, which is why you must only go with a tour guide. The local caretakers will tell you many intriguing facts about palace life, which helps in visualizing the royal life in the now dilapidated remains. It has a very eerie vibe to it, with cobwebs and dust balls all around, and an echo and hollow presence of the past. The local caretakers have many lores, one of them being this scary one: they’ll tell you to carefully listen for hissing sounds, and if you hear one, they’ll tell you that there are snakes in the hidden basements of the palace!
Sadiq Garh Mahal
Bahawalpur has much to offer besides just the palaces, such as historical libraries, museum, mosques, tombs and vibrant markets, the Mahals are a regal testament to the royal beginnings of the state of Bahawalpur.
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