Written by: Dr. Saba Noor
Posted on: January 22, 2021 | | 中文
The province of Sindh, particularly the Indus Delta, has many fascinating places worth visiting, which speak of the rich and fascinating history of the land. While there may not be a lot of archeological evidence to determine the origin of some of these sites, that gap is filled by folk tales and mythologies of the local people. Among those mysterious, interesting and historical places rich with folklore, is Pir Patho, an abandoned mound located at a distance of 25 kilometers from the city of Thatta.
Pir Patho’s most prominent feature is the Mohammad Bin Qasim Tower, a 45 feet high tower allegedly built on the site where the general first stepped foot on the Indian Subcontinent. This beautiful white tower that has recently been preserved by the Endowment Trust, closely resembles a lighthouse or a mosque minaret. While the tower is built close to the mosque, it has multiple windows like those of a lighthouse. However, no such evidence points to either theory and no Arab/Persian art covers the walls of this building.
The mound’s history and importance to the local people goes back further into time than the arrival of Bin Qasim, and is more in line with Sufi beliefs and mythology. It is said that the River Indus once flowed near this area, and the whole site was submerged in water, except for a few small islands. It is said that the majority of the villagers had already converted to Islam, and that the tower is closely associated with the shrine and legend of Pir Patho.
During the 12th century there lived a warlock named Sadiq Saami Faqir, who possessed evil magical powers. Every Friday he would organize a circus and hypnotize the villagers into attending it. Saami, who was a known cannibal, would kill one of the attendees and his magical powers prevented locals from taking action against him. At the same time, a pious saint settled in this mound to preach Islam. He was called Muhammad Hussain Aplani by Muslims and Gopi Chand by Hindus, but both referred to him as Pir Patho. But Pir Patho did not possess any mystical powers to counter the wrath of the wizard Saami.
Pir Patho, a disciple of Bahauddin Zakriya and a contemporary of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, was told to seek the help of another saint Hazrat Sakhi Jamil Shah, the Datar of Girnari, who lived in Junagarh (now in the state of Gujrat in India). After travelling for 40 days he reached Junagarh, and successfully convinced Shah Datar to accompany him back to Thatta. Legend says Pir Patho brought Shah Datar fish from the River Indus, which stayed fresh despite being out of water for more than a month.
Shah Datar confronted Saami, turned him to stone and cast him far from the village. In order to purge the land of Saami’s evil, the villagers built a mosque there, called the ‘Mosque of Two Mehrab’. This this the mosque built close to the lighthouse. Meanwhile Shah Datar stayed at the mound for the rest of his life, but because he did not seek fame, it was said that the village and the shrine was named after Pir Patho who brought him there.
Shah Datar’s death anniversary (‘Urs’) is celebrated every year by both his Hindu and Muslim followers. It is believed that his shrine has a window which opens to the heavens, as there is always a fresh and lovely breeze blowing through it which no one can explain. Adjacent to the shrine of Pir Patho is a six-domed mosque, with simple yet captivating architecture.
Another important story ties Pir Patho and its lighthouse to the lost port of Debal. Locals believe some ancient city existed here as it did in Bhambore, and there was an old graveyard to the east of the tower. There were also river-bed depressions which could have been part of the old routes of the Indus that crossed the village. Many sources have conflated Debal with Thatta itself, and the shrine is called “Pir Patho Debali” by the locals. But there is still little evidence that could confirm or deny these claims.
In the recent past these unique structures were in urgent need for restoration and repair, and fear of irrevocable damage. The Endowment Fund Trust survey team reported on the worsening conditions of the tower, and were successful in getting the financial support to restore it. It took Rs. 1.16 million to restore the brick masonry, the balcony, interior and exterior of the structure with plaster, so that the tower may remain for people to visit.
The site and story of Pir Patho is captivating in its mystery and intrigue, made more fascinating by the lack of written sources that can confirm any of these legends. But visitors can immerse themselves in the fascinating folklore of the land, held together through the ancient traditions of Sufi Islam. It is commendable that restoration efforts are taking place in smaller sites such as Pir Patho, so that more people can visit the mystical and captivating sites hidden within the vast and winding Indus Delta.
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