Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: July 08, 2024 | 
| 中文
An isolated natural stream creates an oasis against the backdrop of the generally dry landscape of Killa Saifullah
From vast expanses of natural grandeur to challenging adventures; historical sites to relaxing getaways, Balochistan offers something for everyone. It is a region that has been at the crossroads of cultures, civilizations, and outside world and yet uniquely true to its own identity. As Salman Rashid, Pakistan’s most well-known travel writer says, “here (in Balochistan) one discovers a land that has actually been undiscovered since time began.” It wont amiss to add that it is also the land where there are corners where time stands still. One such stretch of land, in the northwestern part of the province, about 135 km north away from the provincial capital Quetta, is what today forms the District Killa Saifullah. This is the rocky arid grassland stretch, from Khaisor to Torghar (Black Mountain), hiding within mysteries that have stood the test of times. Torghar is the home of the legendary straight-horned Suleman markhor.
Sunset over Killa Saifullah
Once endangered and on the verge of extinction, Suleman Markhor made a dramatic comeback. Situated in northeastern Balochistan, Killa Saifullah has a splinter like Loralai on its east and south. Zhob envelops Killa Saifullah’s north and a protruding piece of land mostly formed of rugged sandstones, like a literal gateway, extending between Karezat and Zhob connects it to Afghanistan. This deeply hidden hinterland is the home of the elusive Suleman Markhor, a close cousin of the Afghan Urial and yet very distinct from it. In 1985, fewer than 100 Suleman markhors were thought to be alive but thankfully according to a survey conducted in November 2008, their numbers had burgeoned to over 3,100. Unfortunately, the snow leopards and the Asiatic black bears that were once found here have become extinct. The area is rich in reptiles, including the horned viper and the leaf nosed viper.
The Suleman markhor or straight-horned markhor is a goat found in Killa Saifullah
The locals of Killa Saifullah, mostly Pashtun are no less intriguing. Hardy descendants of nomadic tribesmen, most of them belong to Kakar tribe that draws its name from the northern most part of the Toba Kakar Range. Other major casts include Meerzai and Jalalzai. Killa Saifullah itself draws its name from Saifullah Khan who was a brave warrior of Khoidadzai, a sub tribe of Kakar Sunzerkhel. Declared a district as recently as 1988, Killa Saifullah used to be part of Zhob district which was formerly known as Fort Sandaman. Presently divided into two sub-divisions, Killa Saifullah and Muslim Bagh. Interestingly Muslim Bagh was previously known as Hindu Bagh and was renamed. As the legend goes, Hindu Bagh was named after a garden planted by a Hindu saint. Today the population of Killa Saifullah is estimated to be over 23,3047 in 2005 and is 90% Muslim.
Mountains that surround Killa Saifullah
Saifullah Khan was the great grandson of Zarh Nikka, a renowned religious scholar of the region. The British sent its Zhob Expedition in 1884 in order to occupy the Zhob region through Baratkhail. The killas (castles) of Saifullah Khan Khoidadzai and Shah Jehan Jogezai (ruler of Zhob) were demolished. Many tribal people were massacred and over 500 tribal sardars were forced to sign an agreement with the British. Saifullah Khan Khoidadzai and Shah Jehan Jogezai had a narrow escape from the battle scene and established themselves at Kalat Afghanistan; where they continued to operate their insurgency campaign against the British and were never subdued. Saifullah was great freedom fighter, warrior, man of courage and is today considered a symbol of bravery. In a famous Pashtu poetical verses quoted for his bravery, it goes like this: " Grana khuff dai ka baran dai. Ka zhobi Saifullah Khan dai" (Translation: Is it torrential rain, dense fog, or the fighting caravan of Zhob or is it Saifullah crossing by?).
The Brucite found in Killa Saifullah is considered unique for its quality
Remnants of some forts, mounds and karezes (underground water channels) remain from the earlier Mughal era. In the 7th century, Hiuen Tsiang, a Chinese pilgrim has described the Afghans as living in Zhob. In the 13th century the region also survived the ravages of the armies of Gengis Khan, the Mongol. A team of archeologists have found the ruins of a fort called Mughalo Killa or “the fort of the Mughals” were found about 3¼ kilometers from Muslim Bagh, below which there is a spring of water which was reopened about 125 years ago. Fragments of ancient pottery were found in these ruins and it is said that old silver and copper coins were also found. The ruins of a fort called Khanki lie near Shina Khura about 25 kilometers east of Muslim Bagh. Local tradition asserts that the fort was held by Miro, a Mughal governor, who was miraculously overthrown by Sanzar Nika, the progenitor of the Sanzarkhel Kakars. More relics and signs of erased forts were found in Murgha Faqirzai. Toiwar, Sharan, Ismailzai and on the Zhar hill near Akhtarzai. Kan Mehterzai of Killa Saifullah is a monumental place in the district where Asia’s highest railway station is located.
The depleted and weathered out Railway Station of Killa Abdullah
The Killa Saifullah District has great potential for agriculture, particularly for olive orchards, because of its conducive climatic conditions for multiple crops, better access to urban markets and a functional karez system. People also grow traditional crops like wheat and corn while buckwheat can be introduced; it consumes less water and has high demand in urban areas as a nutritious food. Traditional breeds of local livestock are raised as a source of organic meat and dairy products. The increasing demand for water has led to an imminent water crisis while underground water sources continue to deplete due to conventional water intensive agricultural practices. For instance, the most agriculturally productive area of Kan Mehtarzai faces desertification as the underground water table has gone down to some 600 to 1100 feet due to excessive pumping and absence of aquifer replenishing technologies. The District has commercial potential to generate clean energy from its existing hydrological, solar and wind resources.
Dasht Murgha Synclinal folded rocks with younger layers closer to the center of the structure in Killa Saifullah
The area is also bestowed with rich deposits of minerals and semi-precious stones. Chromite and magnesite are mined in Muslim Bagh. Brucite found in Killa Saifullah is considered to be of very superior quality. Other gemstones such as chrysocolla, malachite, azurite, serpentine, epidote, garnet, natrolite, marble, and quartzite are also found here in large quantities. While sedimentary rocks host minerals such as quartz, fluorite. azurite and calcite. In fact, Killa Saifullah is famous for World’s second largest chromite mine, Kan Mehterzai mountain in the Sulaiman Mountain Range, is the highest point at an elevation of 2,170 meters where it has a historical railway station. Expansion of the network of roads and highways catalyzed by the China-Pakistan-Economic Corridor’s infrastructure initiatives has opened the doors of the world for Killa Saifullah too. Seeped in history, obscure from the view of the mainstream, the splendidly silent Killa Saifullah awaits discovery.
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