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    Rush Lake: A Trekker's Travel Diary

    Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
    Posted on: July 15, 2019 | | 中文

    Mount Miar

    Day 1:

    We reached the guesthouse in Hopar village in Nagar valley, about two hours away from the Karakoram Highway. From there, we walked uphill towards the viewpoint of Bualtar glacier after crossing a local market. The view of the valley was better from above. One could see a contrast between the irrigated land of greenery and the beautiful brown mountains on both sides. The setting sun cast light on some sections of the valley, making the trees shimmer as they moved with the wind. We were to camp outside a guesthouse for the night and start the trek tomorrow.

    Day 2:

    After breakfast, the team packed up the tents and equipment and descended into the steep and slippery Bualtar glacier, from where the trek was to begin. The Bualtar glacier that we were traversing through came from the same white mountain we saw the night before. The Miar and Diran peaks were connected to the glacier. It was only when we were on the glacier that we could see the rocks and rubble which covered it. On the left, stood the Batura Muztagh range, home to famous peaks like Lady Finger, Hunza Peak and Ultar Sar.

    However, on our right, the Bualtar glacier was melting and the team had to cross quickly. Every now and then, we would hear a thudding sound of ice collapsing around us. The thought of standing between these crumbling walls gave me the jitters.

    Trekking

    Trekking

    The team crossed this hurdle, and took a quick but well-deserved brief break before descending onto the second glacier of the trek. The second glacier was called Bharpoo glacier, and this one was not melting as fast as Bualtar. The only technical part on Bharpoo was that there were loose rocks and a few slippery climbs to watch out for.

    After crossing both glaciers, the team trekked through a narrow valley. The incline was gradual and there was not much difficulty covering this part.  However, we came across a group of giant lizards, some of them almost 2 meters long. They were frightening at first because they were indistinguishable from the surroundings. They saw us approaching and sped by quickly, almost touching us. But they were harmless, simply wary of our presence. My fellow trekkers who had visited Passu and Patundas told me that such lizards are found there as well.

    We walked between the valleys and pasts the lizards, and the terrain simply transformed. From glaciers, hills and rocks, the path changed to a small desert and flatland. After another easy hour of trekking, we would reach Berichkor, our camping site,. The mountain on our left became larger as we proceeded, till it was all we could see. It was the same very mountain which we had to climb to reach Rush Lake the next day.

    In this last hour of our trek to Berichkor, big cotton clouds in the clear blue sky followed us to the campsite. Berichkor was at the start of a small pasture with wild bushes and stunted trees (due to the altitude and weather conditions). A herd of sheep was grazing peacefully, and we were to feast on one of them after reaching the lake.

    Sheep in the pasture

    Sheep in the pasture

    Upon reaching the campsite, we rested for an hour, and then a few of us decided to climb the hill that separated us from Bharpoo glacier. It was then that I  got a chance to truly appreciate the beauty of the glacier we had crossed. We could see how it was connected to Mount Miar, and I had not seen a prettier white glacier than this before. That, along with the small emerald green lake on the glacier and the breathtaking sunset on Bharpoo, made this day favorite.

    Day 3:

    Today was the real challenge: the team had to ascend nearly 1500 meters to Rush Lake.  We left behind our belongings at Berichkor, and began with good spirits. But no one except our guide, was really aware of the treacherous climb that lay ahead for us.

    After spending significant time simply climbing, one of the team members asked the guide if we had done half of the climb. The guide simply responded that we had done only ten percent of the climb. At least three other times, I thought there were only a few meters left. But, after reaching a little further there would be a bigger climb ahead.

    Lack of acclimatization and low oxygen levels made every step from here onwards difficult. For the expedition to be successful, it was important to keep everyone positive and motivated. At over 4500m, with aching bodies, we spent more time gasping for air than talking to each other. We could no longer refill our bottles because the streams had frozen. Progress became slow, and breaks came more frequently. We were walking on fields of snow now, and although it was better than walking on rocks, it was tiring and exhausting to make the extra effort, even for the seasoned trekkers.

    After trekking in these extreme conditions, we realized that our expedition to this 4694m alpine lake was too early in the season, and that the lake was submerged in snow. Even the outline of the lake could not be distinguished, and the snow would not melt for another few weeks. Because the sun was making the snow soft, we could not spend much time at this elevation. We hurriedly took group photos before returning to Berichkor . The clouds were so low that they submerged with the lake, and we had not realized it.

    Low Clouds at Rush Lake

    Low Clouds at Rush Lake

    But it didn’t matter! I had trekked to one of the world’s highest Alpine lakes, and saw some of the most beautiful views in all my trekking experience. I learnt a lot on this day about perseverance and strong will. Now at Berichkor, it was time to enjoy the feast, and to exalt in our sense of conquest and achievement.

    Group Picture at Rush Lake

    Group Picture at Rush Lake


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021