Written by: Mehr Jan
Posted on: January 17, 2020 | 
| 中文
Winters on Murree's Mall Road (photo credits to the writer)
With the winter season in full swing in Pakistan, perhaps the most popular and easily accessible winter retreats to venture towards, is the small yet vibrant town of Murree. Murree enthrals visitors every day, and has remained a beloved hill station for all seasons and all generations. Located 7500ft above sea level, it is located on the southern slopes of the Western Himalayan foothills. The coolness of the fresh air and lush greenery in Summer and Spring is as enticing as the snow-capped Winter Wonderland during January and February. Rightfully called “Malka-e-Kohsar (Queen of the Hills)”, Murree has plenty of forests, which are home to various species of wild animals like leopards, monkeys and vole rodents, whose habitats extend till the far side of Kashmir.
With the construction of the new motorway, the route to Murree is especially accessible to the residents of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, at a mere 30km. Yet it’s not surprising to see regular visitors from places like Sialkot, Karachi, Lahore, Gujrat in the area.
Murree in the 1980s-1990s (Photo credits to Vintage Pakistan)
The town is said to have been named after a local word ‘marhi’, meaning ‘apex’, others believed that the town was named after the Virgin Mary. Who would have comprehended that a post office, founded in 1851 by Sir Henry Lawrence, was initially established as a sanatorium for the British troops? However, it wasn’t long before the scenic site became a permanent town in 1853. And it has been a busy town ever since.
Since the town of Murree was built along European lines, the main artery was and is the Mall Road, the centre for all commercial and administrative activities. In the early years, Mall Road was known for its coffee shops, restaurants, and boutiques with the finest wools. Some of the more popular names include Sam’s, and Lintotts Restaurant, which are now under different owners.
The Old Sam's Building (photo credits to Vintage Pakistan)
Even though the road called Jinnah Road, many still refer to and reminisce of it as the Mall. Tourists flock to the roads both day and night, making it vibrate and buzz with energy. One can still buy souvenirs, make good bargains, and can satisfy appetites at one of the many restaurants situated on this particular road stretch. The writer can personally attest to how lively and bubbly Mall Road remains, even at 3:00 AM when the weather is -4 degrees outside.
Aside from Mall Road, there are many monuments to entice those with a penchant for history. On one end of Mall Road, you will find the General Post Office (GPO), built in 1876. This large, colourful building is a sight to behold, sticking out amidst the hotels and resorts. Despite losing its original façade after years of intervention, the building’s vintage look still appeals to many. It was reported a few years back that the government was to spend Rs.50 million to renovate General Post Office (GPO) which would include the preservation of its detailed masonry and woodwork details.
Murree's GPO (photo credits to uniconconsulting)
However, nothing defines the British-era buildings of Murree better than The Holy Trinity Church, situated at the lower bazaar of the Mall Road. Constructed in 1875, it is one of the oldest buildings in the area that still stands today. It was used by the British as a place of worship and a hub for socializing. Although the church needs extensive preservation, many of the original sculptures, tiling, and décor have remained.
Holy Trinity Church (photo credits to Dawn)
Other buildings include the Cecil Hotel built in 1851, which is one of the oldest hotels in Pakistan. In the 1940s, it was the official residence of Lord Mountbatten, the last Viceroy of India, and it has been reconverted into a hotel since the late 90s. For those who grew up in the boarding schools of Convent of Jesus and Mary or Lawrence College, returning to Murree invokes a return to the peaceful, crisp summer days of childhood.
Mall Road is located in the middle of two major points, both of which welcome visitors to soak in natural beauty in its true majesty. ‘Kashmir Point’ is just a 15minute walk from GPO, and is surrounded by the vast, serene Kashmiri Mountains. Equally intriguing is ‘Pindi Point’, which is on the other end of Mall Road. Providing a breath-taking aerial view of the whole of Rawalpindi, the highlight of this point is a 1.5 km chairlift from Pindi Point to Bansara, complete with a gorgeous view of tall pine trees.
A Park Close to Pindi Point (photo credits to the writer)
With its endless possibilities, shopping extravaganza, scenic landmarks, and historical wonders, Murree has welcomed visitors of all ages and all places. While it isn’t uncommon to witness heavy traffic especially on weekends, the small hill station that was meant to be a retreat for the British, has quickly escalated into a wondrous paradigm of happiness for Pakistanis. What it needs, however, is a boost from the government for better infrastructure and proper mechanisms for garbage control and environmental degradation. Murree remains an enigma of beauty and excitement; it must be preserved as a place of calm and peace and natural beauty.
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